Not gun shots, and not exactly 4:00 AM. In my second jaunt to Da Lat, I came armed with my own interpreter, Vu, to help me understand the coffee industry in the region. Recommended by close friends to take a trip to Cafe 171 for it had the city's best ca phe and lively atmosphere before sunrise. I didn't make first call but, I did arrive at about 9:30 and was able to catch the revered barista.
Owner Tran Sum, 75, has owned his cafe since 1980. What began as a job while he was child, has continued to be the bread and butter of his family that includes his wife, six daughters and one son.
With an infectious smile, Tran explains that he is awake by 01:00 preparing 200 *cups* of coffee by 04:00. I say cups, because coffee to me is served in a cup but Tran's shot of adrenaline comes in a form of a shot glass. It contains caffeine to match an Italian espresso but with flavor likened to Belgian chocolate. This ca phe sua nong even sent me spinning back to my hotel calming my palpitating heart from ripping through my chest in spite of the extra drip of sweet condensed milk to lighten the blow.
His first round of customers include long-haul truck drivers beginning their routes , lottery ticket soliciters and market vendors. From 04:00 to about 10:00, his modest cafe is packed with patrons that continue outside lining the pavement for a good 15 meters. This famed establishment welcomes your laborers, travelers and other cafe owners as well.
It is common for cafes in Da Lat to roast their own beans. Tran says he adds some butter, sugar and salt to make his brew good. He mixes mocha beans for sweetness and robusta for a good after taste. The majority of his beans come from Duc Trong province, about 30 km from Da Lat.
His method includes the sock, a cloth used as a filter holding the grounded coffee while hot water is poured on top. For peak hours, he alone commands the bar with his children aiding by the side. Later, his third oldest daughter takes reign. And, in all honesty, I have tasted her preparation the day before, it's just not quite the same with Tran's a sip more superior. Tran is never idle, he stands with his hands pressed against the counter intently focused on his metal canisters as if he were playing chess and awaiting his opponent's next move.
Tran states that he has no intention of slowing down. Drinking about 4 to 5 glasses of coffee a day, he works hard because he loves his family very much and wants to make their lives as easy as possible.
Cafe 171, 106 Phan Dinh Phung, Da Lat
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